A Masonic ring is not simply jewellery. It is a physical record of degree work earned, oaths taken, and fraternal bonds formed across years of lodge attendance. When the metal dulls or the stone loses depth, that record dims with it. Masonic ring with gemstones cleaning is not a generic jewellery task. It requires a specific understanding of how Masonic rings are built — the recessed engraving of the Square and Compasses, the bezel-set or prong-set stones common to Master Mason and Royal Arch pieces, the enamel fills used on Scottish Rite and Shrine rings, and the plating choices that vary between lodge traditions.

Most published guides treat this topic as a variation of standard ring cleaning. They list soap and water, mention soft brushes, and stop. What they miss is substantial. Masonic rings carry engraved channels that trap debris differently from a plain band. They carry stones — most commonly black onyx, but also garnet, amethyst, blue topaz, and in senior regalia, diamond and sapphire — each with different tolerances for moisture, heat, and chemical contact. They are made in gold, sterling silver, rhodium-plated silver, and gold-plated base metal, all of which respond differently to polishing compounds and dip solutions.

This guide covers everything that original content left out: stone-specific cleaning by Mohs hardness and porosity, metal-specific care by composition, protection of engraved symbols and enamel fills, the correct handling of plated rings, recovery steps when the wrong method has already been used, and the exact indicators that require professional intervention.

What This Guide Covers

The History and Significance of the Masonic Ring in Ceremonial Tradition

Who Wears a Masonic Ring and Which Degrees Require Specific Stones

Complete Stone Reference — Hardness, Porosity, and Cleaning Tolerance by Type

Metal Types Used in Masonic Rings and Why Each Needs a Different Approach

Step-by-Step Cleaning Method — Hard Stones, Porous Stones, and Enamel Fills

Common Mistakes That Cause Permanent Damage to Masonic Rings

Expert Guidance on Engraved Channels, Plated Finishes, and Long-Term Preservation

Buyer Guide — How to Assess Ring Construction Quality Before Purchasing

Comparison Table — Cleaning Method by Stone and Metal Type

Care and Maintenance by Material

Frequently Asked Questions

Closing Guidance

History and Origin of the Masonic Ring in Fraternal Tradition

The Masonic ring as a recognised emblem of membership emerged in documented form during the 18th century, coinciding with the founding of the United Grand Lodge of England in 1717 and the subsequent spread of organised lodge systems across Europe and the Americas. Earlier fraternal guilds of operative stonemasons used personal seals and tokens, but the wearing of a ring bearing the Square and Compasses as a public or lodge-worn emblem became codified as speculative Freemasonry expanded.

By the mid-1800s, lodge jewellers in London, Edinburgh, and Philadelphia were producing rings specifically for Master Masons who had completed their Third Degree. These early rings were predominantly yellow gold, signet-cut, with engraved rather than cast symbolism. The black onyx stone, with its Mohs hardness of 6.5 to 7 and its deep, ceremonially appropriate colour, became the dominant gemstone choice for Master Mason rings across English and American jurisdictions. It carried no reflective glare that might distract during lodge ceremony and paired well with the oxidised silver and gold tones of period metalwork.

Scottish Rite rings, first formalised under the Supreme Council in 1801, introduced additional gemstone conventions. The 32nd Degree ring traditionally featured a double-headed eagle alongside a more varied palette of stones — garnet for some jurisdictions, amethyst in others. Royal Arch rings in the York Rite system introduced enamel fills alongside stone settings, requiring care methods that no generic jewellery guide addresses. By the early 20th century, manufacturing centres in Birmingham and later Sialkot, Pakistan were producing Masonic rings at scale, with gold, silver, and plated variants reaching lodges worldwide.

The ring’s ceremonial significance has not diminished. In most jurisdictions, the orientation of the Square and Compasses — toward the wearer when among non-Masons, toward observers when in lodge — remains a point of protocol. Cleaning that obscures the engraved detail or dulls the stone undermines both the visual and symbolic function of the ring. Correct care is therefore inseparable from correct respect for the tradition the ring represents.

Who Wears a Masonic Ring and Which Degrees Use Specific Stones

The Masonic ring is not awarded at a fixed degree or restricted to a single body. Different rites and lodges maintain different conventions, and the stone used often reflects the degree attained or the specific office held.

In Blue Lodge Freemasonry, the Entered Apprentice and Fellow Craft degrees do not traditionally carry ring entitlement, though Grand Lodge conventions vary. The Master Mason, conferred at the Third Degree, is the threshold at which ring wearing is considered appropriate in most Anglo-American jurisdictions. The black onyx stone is overwhelmingly the most common choice for Blue Lodge rings, appearing in 10k, 14k, and 18k yellow gold settings as well as sterling silver. The face of the ring carries the Square and Compasses, often with the letter G at centre.

In the Scottish Rite, 32nd Degree Masons, also designated Sublime Prince of the Royal Secret, wear rings that reflect the distinctive double-headed eagle emblem. Some jurisdictions use garnet, which at Mohs 6.5 to 7.5 requires different care than onyx. Honorary 33rd Degree rings — awarded by the Supreme Council rather than conferred by degree work — typically appear in gold with more elaborate stone or enamel treatments.

In the York Rite, the Royal Arch Chapter (Holy Royal Arch, conferred as the completion of the Master Mason degree in English constitutions) uses rings with triple-tau or Royal Arch symbols, sometimes incorporating blue enamel fills alongside bezel-set stones. Knights Templar within the York Rite use distinctive crosses and sometimes white enamel fills, which are particularly vulnerable to chemical cleaning agents.

Past Masters who have served as Worshipful Master of a lodge wear rings that typically display the Past Master symbol — a graduated series of arcs with a sun above. These rings carry high sentimental and ceremonial significance. Correct masonic ring with gemstones cleaning for a Past Master piece is particularly important, as these rings are worn at every lodge meeting and accumulate debris faster than ceremonial pieces worn only occasionally.

Complete Reference — Stone Types, Metal Types, and Construction

Black Onyx — The Most Common Masonic Stone

Black onyx sits at Mohs 6.5 to 7, placing it in the medium-hard category. It is a cryptocrystalline form of silica and carries a smooth, polished surface that is not technically porous in the way that turquoise or opal are. However, onyx is frequently dyed black, and prolonged exposure to soap solutions, ammonia-based cleaners, or acidic dip solutions can strip the dye and produce visible fading or banding after months of improper cleaning. The failure mode is gradual and often unnoticed until the damage is extensive. A dry or barely damp microfibre cloth for the stone face, with soap solution kept to the metal band only, is the correct approach for daily-worn onyx rings.

Garnet and Amethyst — Scottish Rite Stones

Garnet (Mohs 6.5 to 7.5) and amethyst (Mohs 7) are both harder than onyx and generally more tolerant of mild soap and water cleaning. Neither is porous in standard condition. The specific failure risk for garnet is thermal shock — sudden temperature change between cold and hot water during rinsing can cause internal fracturing in some almandine garnets. Use tepid water only, never alternating temperatures. Amethyst fades under prolonged ultraviolet light exposure; storing a ring near a sunny window will cause colour loss over time regardless of cleaning method.

Diamond and Sapphire — High-Grade Ceremonial Rings

Diamonds (Mohs 10) and sapphires (Mohs 9) are the hardest stones used in Masonic rings and tolerate the most thorough cleaning. A 20 to 30 minute soak in warm water with two drops of plain dish soap, followed by cleaning with a children’s soft toothbrush, is fully safe for these stones. The specific failure risk here is not the stone — it is the prong setting. Masonic rings with claw-set diamonds or sapphires carry fine prongs that wear down at approximately 0.1 to 0.2 mm per decade of daily wear. Vigorous brushing of worn prongs can accelerate loosening. Inspect prong integrity annually.

Enamel Fills — Royal Arch and Knights Templar Rings

Enamel fills are not stones. They are glass-fused colour applications fired at temperatures between 750 and 850 degrees Celsius during manufacture. Once cured, they are chemically stable under mild conditions, but they are vulnerable to ammonia, bleach, and ultrasonic vibration, which cause micro-fracturing at the enamel-to-metal boundary. The failure mode is chipping or flaking at edges where the enamel meets the engraved channel. Enamel rings must be cleaned with a damp microfibre cloth only. No soaking. No chemical solutions. No ultrasonic cleaners under any circumstances.

Metal Types — Gold, Silver, and Plated Finishes

Solid yellow gold in 9k, 10k, 14k, and 18k compositions is the most durable band material for Masonic rings and tolerates soap and water cleaning without concern. Sterling silver (.925) tarnishes through oxidation and requires a silver polishing cloth applied to the metal only — not across the stone. Rhodium-plated silver, commonly used in Scottish Rite and Royal Arch rings, carries a 1 to 5 micron rhodium layer over a sterling base. This layer strips under abrasive polishes, silver dip solutions, and even excessive brushing. Gold-plated rings carry similar vulnerability at the plating boundary. Plated rings should never be soaked, never dipped, and never brushed with any compound other than plain water on a soft cloth.

Step-by-Step Cleaning Method for a Masonic Ring With Gemstones

Here is the thing: the method depends entirely on what the ring is made from. Applying a single universal method to all Masonic rings is the most common source of accidental damage. Work through the identification step before touching the ring.

Step 1 — Identify the stone type and the metal type. Check any purchase documentation, or examine the stone under good light. Onyx is uniformly black with a flat or slightly domed cabochon surface. Garnet is deep red. Enamel fills show hard, flat colour with visible edges where they meet the metal.

Step 2 — For rings with hard stones (diamond, sapphire, garnet, amethyst): prepare a small bowl of warm water — not hot — with two drops of plain, unscented dish soap. Submerge the ring for 20 minutes. This softens the body oil and lotion residue that accumulates in engraved channels and beneath the stone seat.

Step 3 — Use a children’s toothbrush with soft bristles to clean inside the engraved Square and Compasses symbol. The channels trap talc from ritual gloves and oxidised skin deposits. Work the brush into the channel from multiple angles. The underside of the stone seat — where the girdle meets the metal — requires particular attention, as this is where light enters the stone and debris blocks it most visibly.

Step 4 — Rinse under warm running water, holding the ring securely. Do not rinse over an open drain. A fine gold ring in the 8 to 12 gram range can slide from fingers made slick by soap residue. Use a plugged basin or a strainer beneath the tap.

Step 5 — Pat dry immediately with a lint-free microfibre cloth. Do not use paper towels, which are mildly abrasive on polished metal surfaces. Allow the ring to air-dry for five minutes on the cloth before storing.

Step 6 — For rings with black onyx: skip the soak. Dampen the microfibre cloth only and wipe the stone surface gently. Clean the metal band separately with the soap solution and a brush, keeping the wet brush away from the onyx face. Dry immediately.

Step 7 — For plated rings (rhodium-plated or gold-plated): use a barely damp cloth on the full ring. No soap solutions. No immersion. Pat dry at once. The correct approach for plated Masonic rings is regular dry buffing with a jewellery cloth between thorough damp wipes.

Worth knowing: Masonic rings accumulate a specific type of debris not common to other jewellery. Ritual gloves — white cotton in most jurisdictions — deposit fine fibres and cotton dust directly into engraved channels. This debris is dry and compacted. A dry children’s toothbrush (used first, before any wet cleaning) will dislodge the majority of it before moisture makes it harder to remove.

Common Mistakes That Cause Permanent Damage

Using Toothpaste on the Band or Stone

Toothpaste is a mild abrasive, typically formulated with silica or calcium carbonate at between 1 and 3 RDA (Relative Dentin Abrasivity). On softer metals — 9k gold, sterling silver, gold-plated base metal — this creates micro-scratches that accumulate into visible surface dulling within a few applications. On onyx, which sits at the lower end of medium hardness, repeated toothpaste contact can abrade the polished cabochon surface. The correct approach: plain dish soap and a soft brush. The dish soap contains no abrasive compounds and lifts grease through surfactant action, not friction.

Applying Silver Dip to a Ring With Any Stone

Commercial silver dip solutions use thiourea or sodium thiosulphate at a pH between 4 and 6 to dissolve silver sulphide tarnish. This chemistry works efficiently on plain silver bands. On a ring with an onyx stone, even brief immersion allows the acidic solution to contact the stone seat and the adhesive used in cabochon settings. Onyx set with modern jewellery adhesives can loosen within a single prolonged dip. On enamel fills, the acid attacks the metal-to-enamel boundary directly. The result is flaking that cannot be repaired without professional re-enamelling. The correct approach: a silver polishing cloth on the metal band only, moved carefully around the stone.

Using an Ultrasonic Cleaner Without Checking the Setting

Ultrasonic cleaners generate cavitation waves at frequencies between 20,000 and 400,000 Hz. These waves efficiently dislodge debris from hard settings with intact prongs. On a ring where the prongs show any wear or the stone seat has any gap, the same vibration frequency can unseat the stone entirely or fracture an included garnet or treated emerald from within. Never use an ultrasonic cleaner on a Masonic ring without first checking that all prongs are flush against the stone and that no gap is visible between the stone girdle and the setting edge.

Polishing Across the Engraved Symbols

Standard metal polishing cloths are treated with compounds that leave a thin residue in recessed areas. On a plain band this is harmless. On a Masonic ring, the Square and Compasses engraving is typically 0.3 to 0.8 mm deep. Polishing compound builds up inside these channels and, once dried, dulls the contrast between the engraved detail and the polished surface. The correct approach: use a polishing cloth on the raised band surfaces only, and follow with a soft dry toothbrush in the channels to remove any compound residue before it sets.

Expert Guidance – What Generic Jewellery Guides Do Not Cover

The Specific Problem With Ritual-Worn Rings

A Masonic ring worn to lodge meetings accumulates a compound debris profile that differs from a ring worn in daily civilian life. White cotton ritual gloves deposit short fibres at approximately 15 to 25 microns in length directly into engraved channels. Incense used in some lodge settings deposits thin oily residue on the ring’s upward-facing surface. These two residue types require different removal strategies — dry brushing first for the cotton fibres, then a brief soap soak for the incense oil. Addressing only one leaves the other embedded.

Gold Karat and Its Effect on Long-Term Surface Quality

9k gold (37.5% pure gold) is harder than 18k gold (75% pure gold) because the higher proportion of copper and silver alloys increases metal hardness. A 9k band scratches less visibly than 18k in daily contact wear, but it tarnishes faster because the copper content oxidises more readily. An 18k band develops fewer surface scratches but requires more frequent polishing cloth maintenance. Understanding the karat of a ring changes the cleaning frequency required: 9k and 10k rings benefit from a dry buff with a jewellery cloth every two to three weeks; 18k rings can extend to monthly polishing.

The Rhodium Plating Thickness Issue

Rhodium plating on Masonic rings varies between manufacturers from 0.5 microns on budget pieces to 3 to 5 microns on quality regalia-grade rings. A 0.5 micron layer wears through to the sterling base within 12 to 18 months of daily wear, particularly at the ring shank where finger contact is constant. Once the plating breaks through, the exposed sterling tarnishes rapidly and the visual contrast between plated and unplated areas is stark. Rings from established Masonic regalia manufacturers — including those produced in the Sialkot, Pakistan manufacturing cluster that supplies lodges in the UK and USA — typically carry thicker plating by specification. Confirming plating thickness at point of purchase extends the time before professional re-plating is required.

Buyer Guide – What to Check Before Purchasing a Masonic Ring With a Stone

Masonic ring care guide starts before the purchase, not after. A ring built to lower construction standards requires more frequent professional intervention regardless of how carefully it is cleaned at home.

The stone setting type determines long-term stone security. Bezel settings — where a continuous metal collar wraps the stone’s entire circumference — are the most secure for daily-worn Masonic rings. Prong settings allow more light into the stone but expose more of the stone’s girdle to impact risk. A six-prong setting provides more stone contact than a four-prong setting at equivalent metal weight. For a ring worn to lodge meetings and in daily life, bezel or six-prong construction is the practical choice.

The engraving depth and method affects long-term symbol clarity. Cast symbols — formed in the mould rather than hand-engraved after casting — are shallower and lose definition faster through polishing wear. Hand-engraved symbols cut at 0.5 to 1.0 mm depth retain clarity through decades of correct cleaning. Ask the manufacturer whether the symbolism is cast-in or post-cast engraved.

The metal hallmark confirms composition. UK Masonic rings should carry a hallmark from one of the UK Assay Offices — London, Birmingham, Edinburgh, or Sheffield — confirming gold purity at 9k, 14k, or 18k. Rings marked 925 on the interior confirm sterling silver. Rings with no mark on the interior shank are likely gold-plated base metal and should be priced accordingly. The presence of a hallmark is a reliable quality indicator for rings manufactured to supply lodge members.

What most buyers miss: the condition of the stone seat under magnification. A loupe or phone camera at high zoom will reveal whether the onyx or garnet sits flush against the setting with no visible gap, or whether a gap exists that will allow cleaning solution and debris to enter and accelerate stone loosening. A gap visible to a phone camera at purchase indicates a construction tolerance issue.

Comparison Table – Cleaning Method by Stone and Metal Type

Care and Maintenance by Material

Masonic ring maintenance is mostly about consistent habit rather than intensive periodic treatment. Rings that are wiped clean and stored correctly after every wearing require a full soak-and-brush clean only monthly for daily-worn pieces.

Remove the ring before washing hands with any soap product that contains moisturiser. Moisturiser leaves a thin film on both metal and stone surfaces that dulls reflectivity faster than ordinary soil. Plain handwashing soap is less damaging, but the mechanical action of rubbing while wearing the ring accelerates prong wear at the point where finger skin contacts the stone setting.

Remove the ring before swimming in any chlorinated or salt water. Chlorine reacts with both copper alloys in gold and the silver in sterling rings, causing accelerated surface oxidation. Salt water draws moisture into micro-pores in softer stones and into any gap between the stone and the setting edge. The result over multiple exposures is stone loosening that begins invisibly and presents as a dropped stone months later.

Store the ring in a soft-lined individual box or a separate cloth pouch. Contact with harder materials — another ring, a watch clasp, loose coins — creates scratches on both the band and any polished stone surface. Anti-tarnish strips placed inside the storage box significantly extend the interval between silver polishing cloth treatments for sterling silver rings. Replace anti-tarnish strips every six months.

How to polish a masonic ring: use a jewellery polishing cloth on the raised band surfaces only. Work in short strokes along the band, not across the engraved face of the ring. Wipe any compound residue from the engraved channels immediately with a dry soft toothbrush. Never use a polishing cloth on a plated ring.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use an ultrasonic cleaner on a Masonic ring with a black onyx stone?

No. Black onyx carries a surface treatment — typically dye or wax — that ultrasonic vibration can disturb through cavitation action at the stone’s surface. The vibration also creates micro-movement between the stone and the setting adhesive in bezel-set cabochons. This loosens the stone progressively before it becomes visibly unstable. Ultrasonic cleaners are appropriate only for rings with hard, untreated stones in prong settings where the prongs are confirmed to be fully intact. For any ring with black onyx, the damp cloth method for the stone and a separate soap soak for the band is the correct choice.

My silver Masonic ring has darkened significantly. What removes tarnish without harming the stone?

Masonic ring tarnish removal on a stone-set ring requires separating the tarnish problem from the stone. Silver tarnish is silver sulphide, formed through reaction with atmospheric sulphur compounds. It sits on the metal surface, not inside it. A silver polishing cloth, which contains very fine abrasive treated with a tarnish-dissolving compound, removes it with minimal material loss. The critical technique is to work the cloth around and beneath the stone setting without dragging it across the stone face. For recessed areas of the band that the cloth cannot reach, a cotton swab dampened with a small amount of proprietary silver cleaning fluid — applied only to the metal — and rinsed immediately works effectively. Never submerge the ring in silver dip solution.

How do I clean the engraved Square and Compasses without leaving residue in the channels?

The engraved channels in a Masonic ring collect two types of deposits: dry debris (cotton fibres from ritual gloves, talc) and oily residue (body oils, hand cream). Address the dry debris first with a dry soft toothbrush before any wet cleaning. Then soak the ring, if stone type permits, for 20 minutes. After the soak, use a pointed wooden toothpick to dislodge softened debris from the deepest channel sections — never a metal implement, which will scratch the channel walls. Follow with the soft brush. After drying, run the dry toothbrush through the channels once more to confirm they are clear and to remove any dried soap film.

Is it safe to clean a Masonic ring in an ultrasonic cleaner if it only has a diamond?

A diamond in a fully intact prong setting with no visible wear to the prongs is generally safe in an ultrasonic cleaner. The diamond itself at Mohs 10 will not be harmed by cavitation. The risk is the setting, not the stone. Before using an ultrasonic cleaner on any Masonic ring, examine each prong under a loupe or strong magnification. A prong that appears flush to the naked eye may show a 0.1 mm gap under magnification — sufficient for the vibration to widen it. If any prong shows wear or gap, take the ring to a jeweller for prong tightening before using an ultrasonic cleaner. This applies regardless of stone type.

Why does my Masonic ring look dull after cleaning when the stone looks clear?

Dullness after cleaning typically means surface micro-scratches in the metal, not remaining soil. Cleaning removes deposits; it cannot smooth scratches. Daily wear creates a network of fine scratches on metal at the microscopic level. These scatter light rather than reflecting it directionally, producing visible dulling. The solution is professional re-polishing by a jeweller, which removes a very thin layer of metal surface to restore a flat reflective plane. For plated rings, professional re-polishing is not available — polishing through the plating exposes the base metal beneath. Re-plating is the only recovery option once a plated ring’s surface dulls beyond what a soft cloth can improve.

Can I clean a Royal Arch ring with enamel fills the same way as a standard Masonic ring?

No. Enamel fills require a fundamentally different approach from stone-set rings. Enamel is glass fused to metal and is vulnerable to: ammonia (present in many multi-surface cleaners), bleach, ultrasonic vibration, and thermal shock from sudden temperature change. The correct method for a Royal Arch or Knights Templar ring with enamel fills is a barely damp microfibre cloth wiped gently across both the metal and the enamel surfaces. No soaking. No chemical agents of any kind. No steam cleaning. If the enamel shows visible chipping at the boundary between the fill and the engraved channel, this requires professional re-enamelling, which a specialist jewellery restorer can perform.

How often should a Past Master ring be professionally inspected?

Annual professional inspection is the standard recommendation for any ring in daily or frequent ceremonial use. A Past Master ring worn to every lodge meeting — typically eight to twelve times per year in most jurisdictions — experiences cumulative prong wear, microscopic band thinning at the shank, and potential adhesive degradation in bezel-set stones. A professional jeweller will check prong integrity, test stone security by gentle movement, examine the band shank for thinning that creates fracture risk, and perform a full professional clean that reaches areas home cleaning cannot access. The cost of one annual inspection is substantially lower than the cost of replacing a lost stone or repairing a snapped shank.

Does the orientation of wearing a Masonic ring affect how it should be cleaned?

The orientation convention — Square and Compasses facing outward toward observers when the Mason is among lodge members — does not affect the cleaning process directly. What it does affect is the wear pattern on the ring. A ring worn with the face pointing outward accumulates contact wear primarily on the underside shank. A ring worn with the face inward — toward the wearer when among the public, as some traditions observe — accumulates more face surface contact with adjacent fingers. Knowing the consistent orientation of a particular ring allows the cleaning focus to be adjusted: heavier soaking and brushing at the area of greatest contact wear.

What is the correct method for cleaning a Masonic ring that has both an onyx stone and a small diamond accent?

Mixed-stone rings require the most conservative method applicable to any of the stones present. Black onyx dictates the approach here. The soak safe for diamond is not appropriate for the onyx. The correct method: dry brush first across the full ring to remove dry debris. Then use a damp microfibre cloth on the stone face and the area of the setting immediately surrounding the onyx. Clean the metal band — the shank and the area away from both stones — with a soft brush dipped in mild soap solution and squeezed nearly dry before application. Rinse the metal with a damp cloth rather than running water, keeping the flow away from both stone faces. Dry immediately. The diamond accent in this configuration must be maintained with the same dry-cloth method as the onyx to avoid introducing moisture risk to the adjacent onyx setting.

Preserving the Ring That Carries Your Degree

The engraved Square and Compasses on a Masonic ring represents a degree earned, a lodge obligation made, and a tradition that extends back across three centuries of fraternal history. Preserving that ring correctly is not a generic jewellery task. It requires an understanding of how the ring was built — the stone type, the metal composition, the setting method, and the presence of enamel fills or plating.

Masonic ring with gemstones cleaning begins with identification before it begins with any cleaning agent. The stone determines the moisture tolerance. The metal determines whether soaking, polishing, or only dry cloth care is appropriate. The plating, if present, changes every subsequent decision. This guide has covered each combination in manufacturer-level detail, with the specific failure modes and measurements that distinguish verified product knowledge from generic advice.

For rings that have already been through incorrect cleaning, early professional intervention prevents most damage from becoming permanent. For rings in correct condition, the monthly soak-and-brush routine, careful dry storage, and annual professional inspection form a complete maintenance programme. NextMasonic at nextmasonic.com manufactures Masonic rings and regalia in Sialkot, Pakistan to lodge specifications for customers in the UK, USA, Europe, and worldwide, and provides manufacturer-level guidance on the care requirements for every metal and stone combination it produces.

The ring deserves the same precision in care that the lodge applied to the degree it represents.